Itinerary for 3 Weeks in India

I went to India in April – a place I’d dreamed of visiting for years. As you’ll know if you followed along I had a few issues, but with the benefit of hindsight my 3 weeks in India were brilliant.

Every day was something different, the people were lovely, the trains were an adventure and I was lucky enough to sample India in style with some awesome hotel.

This 3 week India itinerary is a great introduction to a country that will seem even bigger once you’re in it. There’s a lot to see in India!

I wanted to write this post to show you my route from start to finish, with recommendations of what I did or didn’t do along the way. I’ve covered transport, hotels, food recommendations and things to do.

If you’ve got three weeks in India, I’d definitely recommend Delhi, Kerala, Goa and Mumbai. Here’s why…

India 3 week itinerary: the route

Delhi > Golden Triangle > Kochi > Alleppey > Goa > Mumbai

WEEK ONE: Delhi and the Golden Triangle

1. Arrival in Delhi

I arrived in Delhi and got a taxi from the front of the airport to my hotel. Whatever a taxi driver states as the price in India, you need to half it to get somewhere near a fair price. I knew that already yet I fault like my offer of 500 rupees (£5) was still far too generous as he jumped at the chance.

My taxi journey was so sketchy. I’d arrived in Delhi late and already booked into the Airport Hotel Metro Tower, apparently 10 minutes away but I didn’t have the exact address. The taxi driver told me he knew where it was, turned out he didn’t, and neither did his mate who’d jumped in the taxi with us. It was so scary, and the hotel wasn’t much better either. I barely slept.

India tip #1: If you’re gonna be spending any amount of time in India, let alone backpacking India for 3 weeks, quickly learn that a head wobble means yes even though it looks like a maybe, not sure, kinda. It’s super confusing and can easily lead to situations like this.

2. Highlights of Delhi tour

I pretty much ran out the hotel and into my Tripzuki driver’s arms when he came to pick me up for my tour. We went straight to the Rose Hotel in Haus Khaz (now shut down!). It was a dream and I loved Haus Khaz as soon as I saw it.

It was the cricket final so my driver took me out for some Choley for breakfast (a spicy chickpea mix) in front of the TV – a definite when you’re in Delhi. The guide arrived an hour later and off we went for a full day of exploration to see a few of the must see sights of Delhi.

Qutub Minar
Humayun’s Tomb
Indian Gate and Parliament
Lotus Temple
Purani Delhi
Red Fort
Jama Masjid

The taxi driver added a few extras on the bill when I arrived back at my hotel, which I soon found to be standard in India. I was too polite (and scared) to challenge so paid the £45 just to get back to that hotel room. It’d been a long day, after a long night, and I fell on the bed exhausted.

For dinner I went for a Rothi roll from the street food market up the road, and oh my days it was delicious.

India tip #2: I know you always hear about Delhi belly – and that a potential prime place to pick it up may be from a street food cart, but I think that’s where you get some of the best food. Always opt for the place with a few locals eating there too, go veggie if you’re really worried about dodgy meat, and stay clear of sauces that may have been made with tap water.

3. Exploring Haus Khaz

After an incredible breakfast at The Rose Hotel, which included eggs, granola, yogurt and fruits, I walked round Haus Khaz. I soon found out it’s one of the coolest districts in Delhi. I’m so grateful to Tripzuki for introducing me to this place. I wandered round the shops, explored the ruins, bought presents for my family and drank tea and coffee at as many places as possible. I love Haus Khaz.

India tip #3: Kick off your time in Haus Khaz with a coffee at Kunzum Travel Café. Not only will it give you a coffee fix, but they often have tours, loads of guidebooks and travellers who know the area hanging out (often writing their own India travel blog). You can tap them up for their expertise, plan whether you want to simply wander, discuss whether it’s worth visiting the Delhi Art Gallery or join one of the tours.

READ MORE: Unfortunately The Rose Hotel has since shut down, I know, sad times. If you’re looking for recommendations for hotels in Delhi from a travel blog India, check out this guide on chasingtheunexpected.com.

4. Fatehpur Sikri on the Golden Triangle Tour

I had to get up early to get across town to the Delhi Tourism office to start my Golden Triangle tour at 6am. The tour was only £70 including two nights accommodation, which was about £200 cheaper than any other one that I found. I really liked the fact I was the only Westerner on the trip, and I’d be seeing all these sights with Indian people. It just seemed all the more authentic.

We drove to Agra and walked round the incredible Agra Fort.

I decided to go vegetarian in India so chose a spinach and paneer curry for dinner, with naan. Absolutely incredible. Never really eaten paneer before, but I’m definitely planning on more.

India tip #4: The Agra Fort is a MUST. It was a priority for me during my 3 week India tour and it didn’t disappoint. The opening times are determined by sunrise and sunset and I’d recommend trying to either be among the first or last ones there so that you get to see this amazing fort against a stunning sky.

I was doing the Taj Mahal the following day but I know many opt to do them both in the same day. If that’s the case, make sure to do the Agra Fort first because while it is impressive, it might not seem as impressive if you saw the Taj first. Finally, book your Taj Mahal tickets online if you’re not going as part of a tour to save some queuing time.

5. Taj Mahal day

Today was the day I saw the incredible Taj Mahal. I loved hearing the true story of the Taj Mahal – so damn scandalous – and actually seeing the building I’d seen in so many photos before. The experience was better than I imagined and I’d hate for anyone to dismiss the Taj as ‘too touristy’ which I’ve heard before, it was stunning.

Sounds weird but I was impressed by the main roads in India too – they’re wide and not nearly as busy as you’d expect. Even I’d be happy to drive between the big cities here, maybe not in them though.

I had paneer in a fancy place for breakfast, in a rothi roll. Not nearly as good as the street food in Haus Khaz.

If you’ve got three weeks in India, I’d definitely recommend making the Taj Mahal a priority. It’s what India is most famous for after all!

Best way to see the Taj Mahal, join a tour!

I joined a Golden Triangle tour with the India tourist board, which was great, but definitely meant for Indian people. They’ve since taken the tour down and you can no longer book it on the English speaking page.

I’d recommend you book one of these Taj Mahal tours. It just makes travelling between the sights so much easier, and you get a guide to take you round. Also helps when you’re trying not to get hassled, and to help you with which queue you need to be in on entering the sights and attractions.

India tip #5: Don’t forget to pack some clothes that cover your shoulders and ankles. Whether it’s here or another destination on the India itinerary, you’re going to need to cover up at some point. A pashmina that you can quickly whip out is always a good idea to have.

The Taj Mahal isn’t super strict at enforcing a more modest dress code, but it is usually the custom and I think it’s nice to always be respectful. Also, make sure to check the Taj Mahal’s website for the full list of things you can’t bring inside. Food is one of them so if you’ve got some nuts stashed for later, get them eaten.

6. Amber Fort

We went to see the incredible Amber Fort high up in the hills. Again, as I often have been on this trip, I was amazed by the skill and effort that must’ve gone into building these huge landmarks, especially when you think about what tools and equipment they actually had back in the times they would’ve been built in.

After a few hours exploring it was time to head back to Delhi. I bought a bag from a man who promised me it was to fund his studies, then got a lesson in haggling from my new Indian friends who said I’d definitely paid too much.

We arrived back at around 6ish and the tour guide shows me to his friend’s ‘Hotel Amax’ via tuk tuk. I went out for a look around in the surrounding area and everyone stared at me. I’m at least a foot taller than your average Indian, with blonde hair. I guess I’d stare too.

India tip #6: There’s a sound and light show most nights at the fort. I didn’t get to go but I reckon it’d be really cool to see the place all lit up at night and to learn a little more history about the fort.

7. More of Delhi

I had a few hours of extra time in Delhi, thanks to my 10-hour flight delay. I met up with a friend from the tour and went on a motorbike tour round the city and out for more Choley. Everyone here has these Bullet bikes; never heard of them before but now I want one.

A tuk tuk to the airport later and my Delhi adventure was over. Onto Kerala, and some friends!

India tip #7: I didn’t need a full three weeks in India to see for myself just how nuts traffic is here. A few days in Delhi would do it. I’d recommend always allowing extra time to get somewhere, especially when you’re trying to catch a flight and, like anywhere, try not to travel at rush hour.

WEEK TWO – Kerala

8. Exploring Kochi

I arrived just after midnight last night and just managed a quick ‘hello’ and then a ‘goodnight’ to my friends who’d arrived earlier.

After a walk round Kochi in the morning we decided to take the boat over to Ernakulum. It was 5p. We didn’t really know what to do in Ernakulum and it was so hot that we decided to jump in a tuk tuk and cruise around. For the equivalent of about £1 each we had an hour tour round the sights. We decided we were better off in Kochi so rode the boat back again, after we get conned by some kid into paying a ridiculous amount for a bracelet that is.

We chilled out at the Pepper Tree Coffee Shop before taking another tuk tuk ride round Kochi in search of the Jewish area. Then we realise it’s a Saturday, their Sabbath, and we were in the Jewish area but nothing was open. So we went for a huge curry meal followed by an hour-long search for alcohol, which ended fruitless.

We stayed at Aaron’s Guesthouse in Kochi – it was clean, in a great location, and the owner Johnson was really kind and helpful too.

India tip #8: Alcohol is a tricky business in Kochi given that it used to be a prohibition city. Now that’s not the case, but it does mean there are certain rules as to where you can buy it.

Beer and wine is available in bars or Kerala Government Beer and Wine stores (not always the easiest to find), but the hard stuff is only available in certain hotels. It might have been easier to pick up a bottle from Delhi and bring it with me or, if you’re also following a three week India itinerary, perhaps this is the place to give the liver a rest.

9. Road trip to Thekkady

Today we took a taxi for what was meant to be 5 hours, but soon became 7 after the car broke down. Lucky for us it broke down outside a very nice family’s house who invited us in for tea.

I was so ill along the way. I ended up being sick off a bridge when I couldn’t wait another second for us to clear it. I’m pretty sure it was the buffet in the lounge at Delhi Airport.

It cost 4000 rupees for the four of us to get from Kochi to Thekkady in the car, and we gave a 10% tip. We were concerned it wasn’t enough for the amount of time it took but it wasn’t our fault he broke down. Anyway,v he tried to persuade us to come back with him so we can’t have upset him that much.

India tip #9: Maybe watch a few videos of kathakali to make sure you think it’ll be up your street before spending some of the 3 week India budget on something you’re not sure about…

Listen to my podcast!

I caught up with Ellie, who runs the travel blog Wandering Quinn. She’d just spent four months in India and travelled around extensively. If you want to learn more about India before your trip, have a listen on Spotify.

Or here on iTunes.

We arrived at Periyar Woods Hotel in Thekkady at 3ish and booked in to see a Kathakali show followed by a martial arts show for just 200 rupees. Both were ‘not what I was used to’, rather than calling them weird. The photo above is from the Kathakali show – people pay just to watch the making up. When the show was in full flow they got my friend up on stage, which was well funny.

Ended up going for dinner at Spice Garden with two people we’d met earlier in the tourist information centre, Luke and Emma. It was one of the only places to serve alcohol and so was filled with white people. Shame the food was average.

READ MORE: The Best Souvenirs from India

10. So ill, don’t do much

I was so ill over night. So ill. I decided to avoid the nature walk my friends were going on and stay in bed for the morning, after getting no sleep. They saw elephants and wandered in the wild. Jealous.

So glad I have three weeks in India to try and get over this.

We hung out on the balcony when they got back as it had been an early start. In the afternoon we took a tuk tuk to the spice plantation for £1 and while I sat in the shade trying not to vom, they wandered around. That night we went for dinner at ‘Grandma’s’ – a cute little outdoor restaurant. I could barely eat a thing – there was definitely something severely wrong with me.

We went to the Thekkady Flower Show and enjoyed it, until we were eaten alive by bugs.

Thomas from the Periyar Woods Hotel is a great guy – one of our favourite people from the trip. I’d strongly recommend you stay at Periyar Woods if you’re in the area. Tell him I said hi.

India tip #10: Remember to pack the bug spray. There’s no way you’ll survive 3 weeks in India without it!

11. Rollercoaster bus journey and Marari

We decided to get the bus from Thekkady to Marari in Alleppey. We soon found it was an interesting choice. Despite trying to make sure of the times via about three different people, we still managed to miss the direct bus. We ended up on another one hurtling down the hills of Thekkady with a rollercoaster driver at the helm.

It was so full we had to stand and so as well as holding on to the dangling handles and my backpack between my legs I was also trying to hold onto my stomach. Over 5 hours later, and another breakdown where we had to change buses, we were still 2 hours away. We decided to just get a taxi. In the end we paid as much as we would’ve for a taxi for the three of us the whole way, but then we wouldn’t have had the adventure.

We arrived at the Marari Beach Resort and it was so nice, we thought we were at the wrong place. The afternoon was spent by the pool before going for dinner, via the beach.

Check out my Marari Beach Resort Review on travel blogs India.

India tip #11: Aside from the bug spray, pack a mini first aid kit with anti-sickness pills and all the other medical essentials. The last thing you need when you’re feeling ill is to have to be haul yourself around to look for a pharmacy. Fingers crossed you won’t need to use it during your 3 weeks in India.

12. Day by the pool at Marari

We spent the whole day by the pool, shame the sun didn’t. We played a lot of Uno and just relaxed in preparation for our organic vegetable cooking class that night.

This turned out to be one of the best nights of our trip and we had a great four hours learning about the produce and how it’s cooked in this part of India. If you stay at Marari Beach Resort you cannot leave without doing this. A highlight was when the lady who worked there told our friend Stu he had half an egg head, and then the other guy in the class that he had a full one. I was speechless.

This was also the first night I felt ok in what seemed like a long time.

India travel tip #12: Learn to eat with your hands. It may seem kind of gross but it’s the way in India and it’s fun to try and master the munch without utensils.

13. Houseboat on the Alleppey Back Waters

We left Marari early, after some debacle with the taxi – be aware that hotels add a hefty levy for calling one for you. We went to nearby Alleppey and rented a houseboat, which was really easy and cost a lot less than we thought. You just rock up and it’s all regulated by the government. For 1000 rupees each we got a one bed houseboat, with space for three, three meals and a cruise along the backwaters.

That night it stormed, which made it even cooler. We had Keralan fish curry and even made a stop to buy some prawns from a canal side shop, which they’d tandoorid to be delicious.

The boat crew wanted to go to sleep at about 10, so we had to vacate the living room. This was even after trying to bribe him with to stay up the rest of our rum, which he took, and then wanted to sleep.

India travel tip #13: Sit outside when it’s time for sunset. The views of the backwaters are really pretty.

14. Ramada in Alleppey

The early night was probably for the best as they chucked us off the houseboat at around 8am after breakfast. We had the day in Alleppey with not much to do and all our luggage, so we paid to spend the day by the pool at The Ramada. A big, fancy hotel that charged us a ridiculous amount for everything, but seeing as it was the only option we had to pay.

At around 4ish we went into town for some dinner and found Thaff Restaurant. It was here that I had one of the best meals of my time in India, well the best dishes. A tomato fry. Basically tomatoes fried up in delicious spices. This was the exact point where I started to feel better, I hadn’t been able to keep anything in for a few days now.

I bought some sunglasses from over the road and life was good again. That evening we went and drank at one of the bars by the beach before getting on the train, Goa bound.

Read: How to Do the Radjhani Express Train Overnight

India travel tip #14: If you’re a bird watching fan then this is a great place to whip out the binoculars because Alleppey is home to some of the rarest beauties.

3 Weeks in India Itinerary: Delhi, Kerala, Goa and Mumbai